Bonjour, my beloved friends!
I write to you from Paris, on the final days of my two-week sabbatical. Looking at my notebook and my camera roll, it all feels like the warm glow of a dream.
Back in February, I decided that my little gift to myself for getting a promotion would be Paris in the fall. Any time I felt frustrated or tired or stressed, I looked to this trip as a light on the horizon. “In Paris,” I told myself, “I will finally have time to slow down and find the answers to all of Life’s Big Questions™, and I will do so with a cappuccino in a cafe by the Seine.”
There was a moment right after I landed when I was hit with panic: what if my expectations were too high?! But as I began to wander and explore, I was overcome by the most serendipitous, providential, and abundant experiences. I stumbled into parks and churches and cafes and museums, sat on benches to read in the sun, popped into Masses, stopped on terraces for a snack. Everywhere I looked, there was more to see. It was the epitome of my word of the year: wonder.
And, true to His word, God provided. During overnight adoration at Sacré-Cœur (a longtime dream), I met a gal who invited me to her birthday party that night, where I met a bevy of amazing new Parisian friends, two of whom joined me at the ballet a few nights later. On day two of my trip, while reading in the Luxembourg Gardens, I met a handsome Frenchman who showed me his favorite spots all over Paris. I visited Mont Saint-Michel, walked hundreds of thousands of steps (literally) up, down, and all around the city. I prayed in at least 20 churches. I made macarons and went on a “perfume tour.” I saw Celine Dion!!
Of course, there were challenging moments, traveling on my own. Sometimes it was overwhelming to make all my own decisions. I had moments of loneliness: on a free walking tour (which was amazing), I met two women and their three adult daughters from Baltimore, and they felt like a touch of home. But when the tour ended, and we went our separate ways, I felt a pang, wishing that I had someone to share the trip with. The gift of the open time was that I didn’t have to rush through those feelings; I could sit in them. And then I would get a little cappuccino and a pastry, which always made me feel better.
As mentioned above, I came into this sabbatical with some big questions and plans I wanted sorted. I envisioned myself mapping out my life on a park bench, tearing through books and drafting a novel or two. But that didn’t happen. In fact, it took at least a week before I finally had any desire to write at all — I think my body needed the time to slow down. So although I didn’t solve my life, God did something much better and more important (as He is wont to do): He used this trip to remind me, over and over again, how much He loves me.
He reminded me as I delighted over the sailboats in the pond, pink sunsets, long walks through cobblestone streets, sunshine dancing through the fall leaves.
He reminded me as I prayed in churches where my heroes went to encounter God, as I lit candles for the intentions I carried with me, as I saw answers to prayers I have been offering up for decades (!!).
He reminded me in the people I met, the new relationships I formed, the casual conversations in cafes and lines, people with their own stories, dreams, and desires. He reminded me that the world is so, so much bigger than I can fathom.
He used the trip to love me, to delight me, to provide for me, to draw me nearer to Him. And that was more than I could have ever asked for.
I love Paris, even more than I ever have, and I cannot wait to return. I do have real recs and things, and I linked a few below. If you’re feeling inclined to take a sabbatical, I cannot recommend it more. You may not get answers to all of life’s questions, but you’ll probably get some rest, some adventure, and hopefully a really good croissant.
En Christ,
Jane
What I’m loving lately (Paris edition)
Jardin de Luxembourg: My new favorite place in Paris for time and eternity. I went there at least six times to sit and read on a bench to watch the sailboats to listen to music. It was heavenly.
Mont Saint-Michel day trip: I highly recommend this day trip! While four hours out and four hours back seems like a ton, I did it right in the middle of my trip and was grateful for the forced break to read and rest. We spent three hours on the island, and that was more than enough time: I spent about an hour at the top of the Abbey (warning: 500+ stairs) and then by some miracle, was able to walk in at La Mere Poulard, the Michelin Guide restaurant at the base of the mountain, with omelettes using the recipe they’ve used for 200 years. Next time, I’m going to try and stay overnight with the monks, so I can watch the tides rise and then fall, which I hear is magical.
Overnight at Sacre Coeur: I have wanted to do this nocturnal adoration ever since I discovered it two years ago — and it did not disappoint. There were probably 50 of us, and I was surprisingly one of the younger ones. The evening began with 9:30 compline and 10 PM Mass, before they closed the basilica to everyone who was not staying overnight. My adoration slot was 5am — being in Sacre Coeur in the dark with just 1-2 other people was an experience I’ll never forget. We had Mass at 7 AM and then a breakfast altogether, where I made a friend! I will absolutely do this again.
Macaron class: Macarons are delicious and also tricky, so taking the class was a must, and I enjoyed it immensely. I left with macarons for a week!
Free walking tour: A friend recommended this free walking tour. I never heard of them, but apparently they offer them in cities all over Europe! The tour is free, but you’re invited to give a tip at the end (my tour guide Orla absolutely deserved her tips). I can’t recommend this more and will check it out next time I go to a new city. Also a great way to meet other travelers!
Perfume tour: I loveeee perfume, and this tour with Madeline was such a fun way to learn about the world of niche Parisian perfumes! I get overwhelmed walking into a perfume shop, and she was so helpful to walk through the scents and help me find what I loved!
The ballet: I set an alarm to get tickets to the ballet at the Opera Garnier (the opera house from Phantom of the Opera), but it was totally sold out online. I decided to try my luck and walk into the box office a few days before their final shows, and got amazing seats practically on the stage!! A glorious ballet and a gorgeous venue. And a great reminder to ask for what you want! They also have an amazing tour that I did a couple of years ago.
Sunday Mass at Notre Dame: Always amazing, but very hard to get a good seat if you’re not early. This time, I arrived at 9:15, sat in the front row for morning prayer at 9:30, and then stayed for Mass at 10. I highly recommend doing that so you get a good seat! Also!! The Crown of Thorns is on display every Friday from 3-6:30 pm; it was well worth stopping in to see and pray with it.
Mass at Sainte-Trinite: That being said, the most beautiful Mass I think I’ve ever attended in my entire life was at Sainte-Trinité at 7 PM on Sunday. It’s the largest young adult Mass in Paris, and every single seat was taken. I think 2000 young adults? It was absolutely unreal… the music, the incense. They also have a tradition where you turn people around you and offer them your intentions for the Mass; we went to a bar across the street afterward. I told the priest that the whole thing was a taste of heaven.
Food: I loved Adela which was in my neighborhood for retro Italian with a fun vibe, Le Mistral for roast chicken and people watching (tucked behind a glass window, I could watch the sun set over the Seine and people running around with great fashion). Noir coffee was a very cool vibe. I mostly saw little cafes and popped in. Oh, and I probably ate 5 poulet sandwiches from Copains.
Side note random tip: I booked most of the above through AirBNB, and they’re doing a ton of investment in their “experiences” line right now, so they kept offering me $50 off / 50% off over and over again. And I went to the Musee D’Orsay for free! If you’re traveling soon, check out AirBNB experiences (not sponsored but they saved me so much money)!
Other side things:
St. Jude novena began yesterday! I love this novena; every year on October 28, St. Jude shows up in wild ways. I highly recommend jumping on board with your impossible causes :)
Thinking about AI use
I thought this was such a great reflection on how and why to use tools, specifically AI and technology. A little heady, but really packs a punch.
Prayer intentions
For many special intentions! St. Jude, pray for us!